On the threshold of the third millennium in Russia, a real raspberry miracle appeared - the first domestic repair grade Babye Leto. Unlike ordinary raspberries, fruiting on two-year branches, the crop forms a crop on annual shoots in the late summer and has improved characteristics. It is no coincidence that the variety is named in the same way as the period of golden autumn - Indian Summer.
The history and description of raspberries
In the 70s of the XX century, Soviet scientists began active work to remove remont raspberries. It was necessary to develop varieties that have time to fully mature in the cold climate of Central Russia, the Urals, Siberia, and the Far East. The selection was carried out by scientists led by I.V. Kazakov at the Kokinsky stronghold of the All-Russian Institute of Horticulture and Nursery. When crossing the American repairing genotype Sentyabrskaya with a hybrid No. 12-77 (Novosti Kuzmina), the first domestic repairing raspberry Babye Summer was bred. In 1989, the variety was accepted for testing, in 1995 it was introduced into the State Register.
The grade is recommended for the Northwest, Central and North Caucasian regions. This species is particularly well-established in the Krasnodar, Stavropol Territories, the Republic of Crimea, Dagestan, where you can get up to 3 kg of berries from a bush, more than 37 kg / ha. In the northern regions, where autumn frosts are established early, fruit bearing decreases slightly, the average yield here is 1.2 kg per plant.
Variety Indian summer is appreciated for the taste of fruits and productivity - bushes are simply dotted with berries. The unique Bryansk raspberry directs all its potential to the formation of an abundance of fruits, and not to the growth of shoots, therefore it does not grow in the area, it does not have empty shoots.
Another advantage of the repairing variety is that there is not a single wormhole on the berries. By the time of fruit ripening in late summer, the flight of insect parasites ends, the raspberry beetle goes into hibernation.
Raspberry Indian summer forms a low, sprawling bush with strong branches
Grade characteristics
Perennial low (1-1.5 m) slightly spreading shrub. The stems are straight, strongly branching, of medium thickness, with large stiff spines. Young shoots are pinkish in color, biennial - brown. The variety has an average ability to shoot formation, 10-15 shoots grow by 1 m. The leaves are medium sized, green, slightly wrinkled or smooth.
Berries ripen in late June, the second wave begins in mid-August and lasts until frost. The formation of fruit ovaries in the variety occurs mainly on annual shoots. Berries are placed along the entire length of the lateral branches, each inflorescence forms 150-300 fruits. Berries weighing 2.1-3.0 g have the shape of a truncated cone. The pulp is red, juicy. Tasting score 4.5 points. The content of vitamin C is 30 mg per 100 g of fruit.
The berries of the Indian summer are medium-sized, juicy and tasty.
The variety is resistant to gray rot and curly, but susceptible to pathogens of powdery mildew, purple spotting. Plants can be affected by a spider mite.
Video: Indian Summer Matures
Landing Features
For the successful cultivation of Raspberry Indian summer, a number of factors must be taken into account.
Seat selection
Under the plantings should take the most light corners of the garden. It is advisable that the site is all day under the sun.
In areas with a cold climate, it is preferable to plant a crop on the south side of the sheds, protecting the plantings from gusts of wind by a fence, hedge, trees. A warmer microclimate is created in such places, in the spring active snow melting is observed, the soil warms up faster. However, raspberries should not be planted too close to fences or other plantings - even slight shading delays the ripening time, worsens the taste of berries. Only in the southern regions, in order to save the culture from the hot sunshine, places with a slight shading are permissible.
Raspberry feels comfortable in the bright corners of the garden, fenced
To soil conditions, the culture is undemanding, but prefers to grow on loam or sandy loam soil with neutral acidity. It is undesirable to plant raspberries in clay areas - fruiting will weaken significantly. The composition of clay soil can be improved by applying sand (1 bucket / 1m2) Sandy areas may be suitable for heavy fertilization and watering. Acidic soil is alkalized by the addition of 500 g of lime / m2.
The previous cultures are very important for raspberries. You should not lay a berry in areas where tomatoes and potatoes used to grow. Culture grows well after cucumbers, legumes, zucchini. Raspberries get along well with an apple, cherry, red currant. And it is advisable to plant grapes and sea-buckthorn in another corner of the garden. The berry can be returned to its original place after 5 years.
It is not necessary to divert low-lying areas under the raspberry, where cold air lingers, water stagnates after rain. Groundwater should not be lower than 1.5 m from the surface. Raspberries do not fit too high areas where snow is blown away in winter, and in summer plants suffer from a lack of moisture.
Landing time
Saplings with an open root system can be planted at the beginning of the season, before buds open. However, in spring planting, fruiting is less abundant, because the plant directs all forces to rooting. The most suitable period is autumn, 20-30 days before stable freezing of the soil. The plants planted in autumn will have time to take root, adapt to new conditions and seasoned to approach wintering.
Recently, they have been increasingly practicing planting throughout the season of container seedlings. After 3 months, they give 1-1.5 kg of berries per square meter of plantings.
Seedlings selection
Fruiting raspberry can be grown only from high-quality planting material. Nurseries offer varietal seedlings adapted to the area. Each plant has an accompanying certificate containing information about variety, age, and features of care.
The seedling must be carefully considered: its root system should be developed, fibrous, without mold, and branches 8-10 mm thick, flexible, without spots. It is advisable to buy container plants - a 2-year-old raspberry with a well-formed powerful root system, ready for transplanting.
When selecting seedlings, they primarily pay attention to the root system - it must be well formed
If the seedlings are purchased just before the cold, when it is too late to plant them, they are buried in the garden. A groove is made 15 cm deep with one inclined side, plants are laid on it, sprinkled with earth, compacted so that the cold wind does not penetrate the roots. Ferns are thrown on top - in such a shelter raspberries will not freeze in the winter and will be reliably protected from rodents.
Landing rules
Preparation for planting is carried out in advance. 20 days before planting, a fertilizer per square meter is applied to a dug up and cleared of weeds plot per square meter:
- 20 kg of humus,
- 50 g of superphosphate,
- 30 g of potassium salt (or 300 g of ash).
You can use the complex composition of Kemir wagon (70 g / m2), Stimulus (30 g / m2) Acidic soil is alkalized with lime (500 g / m2).
Raspberries are planted in a bush or linear way. When raspberries are formed, pits of 60x45 cm are prepared from separate bushes, leaving 1 m between them. Two bushes are planted in one hole. With a linear planting, seedlings are placed in trenches 50x45 with an interval between plants of 70 cm, between rows of 1.5-2 m.
On large plantations, raspberries are usually planted in a linear fashion.
The process of planting raspberries consists of the following steps:
- 2 hours before planting, the plants are immersed in a solution of Kornevin, heteroauxin - biostimulants that accelerate root formation and increase stress resistance. Flint fungicide can be added as a prophylactic against root rot.
- A mound of fertile soil is poured at the bottom of a hole or furrow.
- A seedling is lowered onto it, the root system is evenly distributed over it.
Sapling with straightened roots is lowered into the planting pit
- They fill the plant with soil, holding it so as not to deepen. The root neck should be at ground level.
- 5 liters of water are poured into the hole formed around the bush.
After planting, the seedling is well moistened by pouring 5 liters of water into the hole
- Mulch the root zone with straw.
- Shoots are shortened to 40 cm.
In early spring, experienced gardeners cover raspberries with a black film that attracts the sun's rays. The snow under the film will melt faster, the earth will warm up better, therefore, the growth of shoots will begin earlier and the yield will be higher.
Video: ways to plant remont raspberries
Agrotechnics Raspberries
Repair raspberries are more demanding on food, moisture, light than ordinary varieties.
Watering and loosening
Raspberry is a moisture-loving culture, but suffers from stagnation of water. Therefore, in hot weather, you should water the bushes more often, and with prolonged rains, stop watering. They moisturize raspberries once a week, water consumption per bush - 10 liters.
Usually apply watering through grooves or sprinkling. When watering the first method, water is introduced from a watering can or hose into circular recesses made around the bush. After absorbing moisture, the grooves are sure to fall asleep.
Sprinkling with sprayers is best used in hot, dry weather to moisten the soil, leaves and increase air humidity. This should be done in the morning or evening hours for less evaporation of moisture. During the ripening period, this method of moistening the berry is not recommended.
Imitation of rain during watering allows you to moisten not only the soil, but also the foliage, shoots
On large raspberry plantations, it is convenient to use drip irrigation using tapes with dispensers that are laid along rows. Such irrigation is fully automated, water under pressure evenly flows directly to the roots of plants. Before the onset of cold weather in the absence of rain, pre-winter watering (20 l / bush) is mandatory.
Drip irrigation is carried out using tapes with droppers, laid along the rows of raspberries
After each watering or rain, the soil is loosened, while the soil crust is removed, the air permeability of the soil is improved. Loosening in the root zone is carried out to a depth of not more than 7 cm, being careful not to damage the roots located in the surface layer. Then they put mulch - hay, straw, humus. The mulching layer enriches the soil composition, retains moisture, and warms the roots during winter cold. Mulch also prevents many pests of culture from multiplying. Females of the May bug, damaging the roots of raspberries, can not get through a layer of humus or straw and lay larvae.
A thick layer of mulch not only keeps the soil moist for a long time, but also prevents the growth of weeds
Top dressing
In the spring, during a period of intensive shoot growth, the plant needs nitrogen. Every 10 days, urea is scattered under the bushes (30 g / m2) In July, a solution of nitrophoska (60 g / m2), at the end of the season raspberries are fed with superphosphate (50 g) and potassium salt (40 g / m2). For regular top dressing, you can use Kemir complex fertilizer (50 g / 10 l) at the rate of 500 g of solution per bush. It guarantees a tasty and plentiful harvest and a special top dressing for berry crops. Berry. Fertilizer (50 g / m) is evenly sprinkled in a circular hole made around the bush2), is embedded in the ground and watered abundantly.
Complex mineral fertilizers contain all trace elements necessary for berry bushes
Organic fertilizers in their composition are not inferior to mineral additives. Biohumus - the product of the isolation of earthworms - is applied under the bush 2 times a month (60 ml / 10 l) or according to the leaf during the ripening period of the fruits in the form of a solution (1: 200). Such organic replenishment heals the soil, restores its fertility, increases the resistance of plants to weather disasters and pathogenic microbes and diseases, such as powdery mildew, accelerates the ripening of fruits, improves their taste characteristics.
With a frequency of once every 2 weeks, the berry is fertilized with liquid mullein (1:10) or chicken infusion (1:20), spending 500 g of solution on a bush. The source of calcium, potassium, magnesium and other elements necessary for the plant is ash (500 g / m2).
Raspberries will gratefully respond to fertilizing with organic fertilizers, which increase soil fertility
Onion infusion is a good nourishment for raspberries. 500 g of onion husks pour 10 l of water and let stand for 2 weeks. This flavoring fluid not only increases fruiting, but also repels harmful insects.
Fractional foliar top dressing is very effective. Quickly fill the deficiency of trace elements allows the introduction of a sheet of liquid fertilizer with a frequency of once every 10 days.
- Health (15 g / 10 L),
- Berry (20 g / 10 L),
- Crystal (30 g / 10 L).
Trellis cultivation
Raspberry Indian summer forms an upright bush that can be grown without support. However, branches laden with the crop may break. Therefore, it is better to tie the shoots to the trellis. In addition, such bushes are much easier to care for, they are well ventilated and evenly heated by the sun.
Tapestry can be made from any material: wooden beams, metal pipes, plastic battens. Along the row every 3 m dig support pillars and pull on them a wire in 2 rows. Tied shoots at a height of 50 cm and 1.2 m.
Raspberry bushes grown on a trellis look neat and well lit by the sun
Shrubs on a support can also be formed in a fan-like manner. Between the bushes set stakes 2 m high, to which they tie at different heights half of the shoots of one bush and part of the branches of the neighboring one. The tied shoots become like a fan. The easiest way to use the support for single bushes is to fix it to a peg dug in the ground next to the plant.
With the help of a film-frame shelter installed above the bushes, gardeners managed to get 200 g more berries from each bush and prolong fruiting for 2 weeks. However, plants can be covered only from the end of August, after pollination by bees.
Under film cover raspberry yields increase, fruiting is extended for another 2 weeks
Pruning
Pruning raspberry raspberries are trimmed depending on the formation of a one-year or two-year fruiting cycle. If the berry is grown to produce one crop, in autumn all the shoots are cut. Pruning is carried out in October, in regions with a hot climate - until the end of November, even when the surface layer of the earth is already freezing. Until this time, the roots, receiving nutrients from foliage and stems, will be saturated with them, which will have a beneficial effect on the development of plants. If they plan to get 2 crops per season, only the bled annual stems are removed, the annual ones are shortened by 15 cm.
If you need to get 2 harvests per season, then in the autumn only cut-off stems are cut, to get a single crop, remove all shoots
In spring, the bush is freed from broken and dry stems, in the summer, root offspring and extra stems are necessarily cut, leaving no more than 6 strong branches. With such thinning pruning, the shrub receives enough power, is well lit and ventilated.
Video: how to trim repair raspberries
Winter preparations
With the establishment of cold weather and the end of fruiting, raspberries completely remove all shoots, leaving only the root for the winter. They collect fallen leaves, take away garbage from the site and burn it. If autumn is dry, carry out water-charging irrigation.The raspberry root system, covered with a layer of snow with a thickness of at least 30 cm, can withstand severe frosts. But in snowless winters, especially when warming sharply occurs after frosts, rhizomes can freeze. Therefore, the root zone should be covered with humus, which will not only create a reliable protective cushion for plants, but also improve the nutrient medium.
If you plan to get two crops, only two-year-old shoots are cut. The left annual branches after watering and mulching are insulated. Near the bushes, wire arches are installed, to which bent branches are attached. From above they are covered with agrofibre.
To raspberry comfortably survived the winter, you need to bend the branches, tie them and cover with agrofiber
The creators of Raspberry Babye summer recommended growing it with the removal of the aerial parts and considered it acceptable to harvest twice a season only in the southern regions. The fact is that double fruiting greatly weakens plants, as a result, winter hardiness decreases. Therefore, in the conditions of Siberia and the Urals, it is more productive to grow a late summer crop with mowing shoots. In this case, insulation is not required.
Video: how to properly connect the stems
Breeding methods
Repairing raspberry Indian summer propagates well vegetatively. There are several effective ways:
- Green cuttings. In June, young shoots with a height of about 5 cm are cut underground and planted in prepared containers at an angle of 45 degrees. Then moisturize and cover with a film. The optimum rooting temperature is 25 ° C. Regularly watered, open the greenhouse for ventilation. After 2 weeks, roots will appear. At this time, the plants need to be fed with Ryazanochka complex fertilizer (2 g / 5 l) and after a week planted on a bed according to a 10x30 cm pattern. In the fall they are transplanted to a prepared place.
Raspberry plantation can be expanded by planting new shoots obtained by cuttings
- Root cuttings. After the season is completed, they dig out the roots and divide them into pieces 10 cm long. Cuttings are planted on a fertilized area, watered, covered with a layer of mulch, coniferous branches on top. In the spring, having cleared the landing of spruce branches, they cover them with a film. With the advent of green shoots, the film is removed, watered, fertilized, and planted in a permanent place in the fall.
The method of propagation by root cuttings is very good if the raspberry stems are affected by the disease
- By dividing the bush. The dug bush is divided into 4-5 parts with roots and shoots. The stems are shortened to 45 cm, planted dividers into permanent places and watered.
Each part should have developed roots and 2-3 shoots
Video: care for remont raspberries
Pest and Disease Control
The variety is resistant to curly and gray rot, but is susceptible to purple spotting and powdery mildew. In dry summers, spider mites often settle on bushes. Therefore, prevention is needed.
Table: Raspberry Disease, Prevention and Treatment
| Disease | How do they manifest | Preventive measures | Treatment |
| Anracnose | Brown spots appear on the foliage and stems, the stems rot and break. The disease develops rapidly into dampness and fog. |
| Before flowering, spray with Nitrafen (300 g / 10 l). |
| Septoria | The disease is strongly manifested in high humidity. Light spots with a brown border are formed on the foliage, the leaves dry out. |
|
|
| Purple spotting | The stems are covered with dark spots. Affected shoots dry out. The spread of mushroom spores is facilitated by thickened planting and high humidity. |
| Before budding, treat with Nitrafen (200 g / 10 L), 1% DNOC. |
| Powdery mildew | Mushroom disease attacks raspberries in a drought. Whitish spots first appear on the foliage, then on the shoots. Landing in a shaded area also contributes to the development of the disease. |
|
|
Photo Gallery: Raspberry Disease
- Leaves affected by anthracnose become stained and dry
- Septoria affects stems and foliage
- Purple spotting is booming in wet summers.
- Powdery Mildew Sign - White Plaque on Leaves
Table: Raspberry Pests, Prevention and Control
| Pests | Signs | Prevention | Control measures |
| Spider mite | The parasite settles on the back of the leaf, entangling it with a spider web. Eating leaf juice, it causes their deformation, bushes grow poorly. |
|
|
| Aphid | Aphids suck out juices from leaves and shoots. Plants weaken, resistance to viral infections decreases. |
|
|
| Raspberry beetle | The beetle feasts on foliage, buds, the larvae feed on the pulp of ripe fruits. |
|
|
Photo Gallery: Raspberry Pests
- A spider mite often settles on raspberry bushes in dry weather
- Aphid colonies suck plant juices, greatly weakening them
- Raspberry beetle - a dangerous pest that damages leaves and buds
Natural enemies of aphids - insects - entomophages: ladybug, lacewing, rider, wasp. You can increase their number by planting dill, anise, coriander in the garden.
Grade Reviews
And I liked the Indian Summer. Yes, the berry is not large, medium and slightly larger than average, and it was quite a lot. The taste is pleasant, the aroma is also there. The summer was rainy, the berry did not go sour and the sweetness was. I completely agree that eating varieties is much better, but Indian summer is also not bad. A bush high requires garter.
Elena V.A.//forum.vinograd.info/archive/index.php?t-4109.html
Gathered a crop of remont raspberry Indian summer. I accidentally bought it in the VIR kennel 2 years ago, because there was no other raspberry. Thanks to Stefan for the care tips. The berries turned out to be 2-2.5 cm in diameter, tasty and fragrant. By the time of maturing, SAT had accumulated about 2000, this is the south of the Leningrad Region.
Curious//forum.prihoz.ru/viewtopic.php?t=308&start=720
I understand that this is an old variety and most of it is not interesting ... The shoots are very high, the tops bent under the weight of the berries, so collecting, in principle, is convenient. The fruiting zone is about 30-50 cm. It turns out 1/5 - 1/7 of the height of the shoot. Not enough. Therefore, the thought arose, and can leave for summer fruiting. In the previous year, this young planting was lower, the berry was smaller, and it crumbled. She didn’t care much. And in this - everything is in full, except for mulch (slug). The variety is demanding on top dressing and watering, the berry is very different. Or maybe the fact that the second year will only give birth.
Christina//forum.vinograd.info/archive/index.php?t-4109.html
I have two varieties: Indian summer and Indian summer-2. Grow the third or fourth year. Two years in a row she cut for the winter at soil level. One variety (unfortunately, I forgot, I don’t know which of them) at the end of August begins to bear fruit. And the other grows tall, a lot of ovaries, but now it is still green, and soon frost will come to our region, so I will have time to try only a couple of berries. So here. I will cut the first grade again this winter "to zero". And I won’t cut the second one at all, I’ll try to take an early crop from it, since he is in no hurry to give me the autumn one.
Maria Ivanovna//otvet.mail.ru/question/94280372
Raspberry Indian summer is one of the favorite repair varieties. Let her berries are not as large as the new modern species. However, gardeners are attracted by the opportunity to enjoy beautiful and tasty fruits almost all summer until the snow, when the garden is empty and only ripe raspberries grow red on the bush.
