There are two main types of garlic: spring (planted in spring) and winter (the one planted in autumn). Gardeners may agree that winter garlic is mostly prone to yellowing. The causes of the disease can be identified and eliminated.
Garlic turns yellow in spring: the main causes
The yellowing of the leaves in garlic can appear in early spring, as soon as its shoots appear. The reasons may be different.
Too early landing
If in the fall you did not wait for the establishment of cold weather and hastened with the planting of spring garlic, then shoots may appear before the start of winter. This will negatively affect the development of plants. To prevent this from happening, try to land at the best time for your region — usually no earlier than mid-October, and even later in the southern regions.
Acidic soil
The reason for yellowing can be acidic soil, which garlic does not like. It feels good on soils with a neutral PH level.
To determine what acidity the soil has under future plantings of garlic, at home, you can conduct a study using chalk:
- 2 tbsp. l land from the site must be put in a bottle.
- Add 5 tbsp. l warm water with 1 tsp dissolved in it chopped chalk.
- Put a rubber fingertip on the bottle and shake.
- If the fingertip straightens completely, the soil is acidic; if half - slightly acidic; there will be no changes - the soil is neutral.
To deoxidize the soil, you need to add chalk, dolomite flour or fluff lime in the amount of 300-500 g / m2.
It is useful to plant spring garlic after pepper, which is regularly fertilized with organics. But after onions and potatoes, garlic will feel bad.
Poor planting material
If planting material has not been updated for many years, then numerous pests and pathogens have accumulated in it. Having planted low-quality cloves, there is a risk not to wait for the harvest.
It is noticed: if garlic is planted in large slices, then it turns yellow much less.
Shallow incorporation into the soil
If the feathers of garlic turn yellow immediately after they appear on the surface, the cause may be a small termination of the cloves during planting. Garlic should be planted to a depth of 4-5 cm, followed by mulching the soil with straw or fallen leaves 7-10 cm.
Spring back frost
Spring return frosts can also lead to yellowing of garlic. If the plants have suffered from a cold snap, they need to be treated with growth stimulants Epin or Zircon, which will help them more easily cope with the stress. You can carry out several treatments with one of the drugs with a weekly interval.
To prepare a solution with Epin, it is necessary to dilute the contents of the ampoule with a volume of 0.25 ml in 5 l of water and mix thoroughly. So that the alkaline environment does not destroy the active substance of the drug, it is recommended to use only boiled water. The most effective action will be achieved using a freshly prepared solution.
To prepare a Zircon solution, 1 ml of the drug is dissolved in 10 l of water and mixed thoroughly. Spraying is carried out by evenly wetting the leaves.
Nutrient deficiency
Often in the spring, garlic begins to turn yellow for the reason that it lacks micro or macro elements. Most often, yellowing indicates potassium or nitrogen starvation. Potassium can be provided to plants by fertilizing with potassium sulfate (15-20 g of fertilizer per 10 l of water for processing 1 m2 landings). You can do this by spraying the leaves, dissolving 5 g of potassium sulfate in 1 liter of water. It is better to carry out processing in the evening in calm weather.
If there is not enough nitrogen, then fertilizing with urea or ammonium nitrate will help the plants. 20-25 g of urea must be dissolved in 10 liters of water and sprayed on the leaves of the plants, after a week processing again.
Garlic does not tolerate the presence of chlorine. Therefore, when applying potash fertilizers, potassium chloride is not used, but sulfate. The norm for foliar top dressing is 1 tsp. on 1 liter of water.
Video: how to feed garlic
Wrong watering
And the lack of moisture, and its excess, the plant can respond by yellowing the leaves. To avoid this, you should remember some rules:
- the first time after winter, garlic should be watered in late April - early May (depending on the region). This can be done with top dressing;
- in the initial growing season (April - June), the planting of garlic should be abundantly moistened once a week to a depth of 30 cm;
- in July, watering should be reduced, and then completely stopped, because excess moisture will negatively affect the formation of garlic heads;
- it is necessary to use the settled water with a temperature not lower than 18aboutFROM;
- if the average daily air temperature is below 13aboutC, watering should be stopped;
- optimal time for irrigation - early morning or time after sunset;
- after irrigation, the soil should be pooled to a depth of 2 cm, even better - mulch (for example, with mowed grass) and then pour water mulch.
During intense rains, drainage recesses are excavated along the furrows with garlic, which will remove excess moisture.
Garlic turns yellow in summer
If the garlic begins to turn yellow in the summer, then there is a chance that diseases or pests have crept up to it.
Table: Diseases and pests that cause yellowing of leaves in garlic
Title | Signs other than yellowing leaves | Ways of struggle and prevention |
Fusarium | Leaves, stalk dry, twist and gradually fade, the bulb loses its roots. |
|
White rot (sclerotinia) | At the base of the plant appears white mycelium. |
|
Onion fly | White worms can be found at the base of the leaves. These are the onion fly larvae. |
|
Stem Onion Nematode | On the bottom of the dug plant, white or pink coating is visible, rotten roots. |
|
Photo gallery: diseases and pests leading to yellowing of garlic
- Fusariosis leads to the death of the plant
- Sclerotinia can be prevented by observing crop rotation
- Onion fly appears early, in April
- Onion nematode infects the soil and remains in it for many years
Video: how to deal with garlic fusarium
Determine the cause at the place of its manifestation
Various causes will be manifested by yellowing of various parts of the plant.
Feathers turn yellow
If lower, older leaves turn yellow, then the cause may be a lack of potassium and magnesium in the soil. The lack of potassium is also indicated by the appearance of a narrow, as if burnt, edge along the edge of the leaves. Correct the situation will help the use of ash. For infusion, take 1 kg of wood ash and 10 liters of water. Insist for 3 days, then drain without shaking. Garlic is poured, adding 1 liter of infusion to a bucket of water.
The tips of the leaves turn yellow
If the tips of the feathers begin to turn yellow, this is most likely a signal that the plants lack nitrogen. Conducting both root and foliar dressing will help solve the problem. This can be a traditional fertilizing with ammonium nitrate: 1 tbsp. l on 10 l of water. Can be poured at the rate of 5 l / m2and spray the plants on the leaves.
Nitrate can be replaced with mullein (1:10) or bird droppings (1:20) at a flow rate of 3-5 l / m2. In late June, top dressing should be repeated.
Stems turn yellow
The stalk of garlic can acquire a yellow-green color if it is damaged during freezing. Gradually, the plant will recover itself, but to speed up this process, spray the plantings with any growth accelerator. It can be:
- Epin
- Zircon,
- Gibbersib.
Arrows turn yellow
If the arrows began to turn yellow, then it's time to break them out. They only interfere with plants, giving nutrients to seed formation. Not broken in time, the arrows slow down the ripening of garlic for 2-3 weeks. The heads of such garlic are worse stored, and the scales covering the cloves become thinner.
Experienced gardeners leave only one plant with an arrow on the entire garden with garlic. Its development will help determine the ripening time of spring garlic. He will be ready for harvesting when the arrow gains strength, the seeds at its end form a ball.
There is an old folk trick: after breaking out the arrows at the garlic, burnt matches are inserted into the resulting stumps. This procedure leads to the formation of larger heads.
The broken arrows of spring garlic should never be thrown away. They can be used as a flavoring supplement to meat dishes. Fresh they can be added to salads. And also keep frozen. And if you pickle them, then you can use them as a savory flavorful snack.
And here’s such a short recipe: add 1.5 tablespoons of vegetable oil and 0.5 teaspoon of salt to a pound of arrows of garlic. Grind the mixture in a blender and put in a container, and then place in the freezer. In winter, add to meat dishes as a fragrant seasoning.
Preventing garlic yellowing
In order not to urgently save garlic from yellowing, it is better to try to prevent this. If you properly prepare the beds before planting garlic in the fall, in the spring, feed and water in a timely manner, prevent pests from appearing on the site, then garlic will not upset you with its yellowing feathers.
As prevention, you must adhere to the following rules:
- thoroughly dig the plot in the fall, after removing all plant residues, to a depth of at least a bayonet spade;
- deoxidize the soil, if it turns out that it has a high acidity;
- observe crop rotation, plant garlic in the same place after 3-4 years;
- when planting, use high-quality material after preliminary processing in a solution of potassium permanganate;
- observe the depth of embedding when planting garlic cloves in the soil (at least 3-4 cm);
- so that garlic does not suffer from spring return frosts, plantings should be covered with non-woven material during the period of the expected decrease in temperature;
- feed plants strictly in accordance with the rules, remembering that an overdose of fertilizer is as harmful as their lack.
It is very useful to plant spring garlic in the fall directly on the siderates (oats, vetch, mustard).
As it turns out, there are plenty of reasons for yellowing in garlic. And in order to help him in time, it is important to find out which one arose in a particular case.